Montag, 28. März 2016

(HSM16 #1-6) Brunswick! Finished!!

Finally it is done (and photographed)! My very own 18th century Brunswick! And i love it! How could I not? It has a hood! It has long sleeves! It has a good amount of pretty buttonholes and buttons! It is so over the top as well as simple and practical! Okay, enough enthusiastic babbling, judge for yourself ;-)

Yup, I changed my face again. #MasterOfMimicry :P

The (Historical Sew Monthly 2016) Challenge: fits into each of the first six challenges. The current challenge is #3 Protection but #1 Procrastination, #2 Tucks and Pleating, #4 Gender Bender, #5 Holes and #6 Travel also work.
Material: georgeous babyblue polyester satin, a small amount of unbleached IKEA cotton to line the hood and make the unseen parts of the waistcoat, some pieces of ugly sturdy fabric to line the waistcoat fronts
Pattern: Jacket: J.P. Ryan "Pet-en-l'air / Robe à la Francaise", Waistcoat: trial and error, Petticoat: c'mon...
Year: 1760s-1770s
Notions: buttons covered with satin, extra strong thread to sew the buttonholes, hooks (and thread loops) to hold the jacket fronts in place (I'm not a fan of pinning)
How historically accurate is it? If we imagine a very lazy 18th century amateur seamstress who doesn't care about pretty stitches or perfect lining and just wants to get a new garment done... it's okay. I read that a Brunwick can be very personalized and that there's a great variety in style and design. At least the Pet-en-l'air pattern seems accurate to me (although for some reasons I completely skipped the lining. I must have forgotten it? I can't remember.). I decided to not trim the hole thing. 1st, because that is beyond my patience. 2nd, because I think the colour itself is so bright, shiny and eye-catching that it looks best without an overload of frilly trimming.
Hours to complete: A LOT (it's all sewn by hand)

First worn: february 2016 to take photographs. And to feel pretty sitting on the sofa watching TV. Yes, I did do that. I love this outfit.
I wear: chemise, stays, prequilted petticoat, petticoat, waistcoat, jacket
Accessories: American Duchess Kensington shoes, mittens, a small vintage apron as a cap o.O
I plan: The sleeves are very thin, just a layer of satin, no lining. I plan to make a habit shirt to wear under the waistcoat and jacket for warmth. At the moment it is possible to wear mittens over the long sleeved waistcoat for warmth, which I really like. I also want to make a stomacher so that the Pet-en-l'air jacket could be worn as itself for more formal occasions. That'd be 2 in 1 - saving time, fabric and money! (already been done by Couture Mayah)
Total cost: Perhaps 50€ ? including thread. lining fabrics from stash

It was very windy today... But the outfit is very pleasant to wear. The mittens kept my arms warm as well :) The Pet-en-l'air has hooks on the inside front which hook to thread loops on the waistcoat front to keep the Pet-en-l'air closed.

The hood is ridiculously big. But look at the cap! It is an apron! (another #MasterOfMimicry) I still don't have a pretty cap but I found the apron in my room, tried it and - voilà!

some more pictures with explanations...